Kyrgyzstan is full of mysterious and enigmatic places, and one of them is Enilchek (Inylchek). I like to call it our “Chernobyl,” even though, thankfully, there’s no radioactive danger there. The town itself is a real “ghost town.” If you’re a fan of all things mystical and abandoned, I definitely recommend visiting this place.

History

Enilchek is located in the mountains of the Issyk-Kul region, over 2,000 metres above sea level, not far from the border with China. Here’s how it came to be: in the 1980s, there were plans to open a mining complex in the area, which is rich in metals, especially tin. Over almost ten years, a town was built to house 20,000 workers and their families – complete with apartment blocks, a school, and a hospital.

A fun fact: my grandmother was a builder – she helped construct Enilchek. She still has a border permit dated 1991, showing she visited the place right before the collapse of the USSR. And that collapse is precisely why Enilchek was abandoned – people never had a chance to settle in the town. No country meant no industry. Nowadays, Chinese mining companies operate not far from the area.

Enilchek Today

Honestly, the settlement looks like it’s been bombed. Single-storey houses are ruined, and the taller buildings gape with empty window holes. Symbolically, many of the multi-storey buildings stand almost new, even though they have no windows. I like to think that my grandmother helped build them.

Today, a few dozen families live in Enilchek, mainly raising livestock and working in tourism – Enilchek lies on the route for many tourists and climbers heading to Merzbacher Lake and the infamous Khan Tengri peak.

We visited Enilchek in winter, because a natural hot spring nearby is only accessible then; at other times of the year, the spring is washed out by the mountain river.

The sight was bleak, even depressing – you’re isolated from the world by rocky mountains, and against the backdrop of semi-ruined buildings, everything feels quite desolate. Yet in recent years, Enilchek has shown signs of “rebirth”: a new, modern school was built, a football field, internet was installed (before, all news, books, and movies were literally delivered on flash drives), a recreation area with tennis and billiards was created, and modern guest houses have appeared. Locals say they still hope it’s not too late to start mining again, which could make Enilchek what its founders originally envisioned.

The Ghostly Charm of Enilchek

Enilchek isn’t called a ghost town for nothing: listen to the locals’ scary stories or wander through the abandoned buildings. At night, the settlement is almost completely dark, giving you a real adrenaline rush. We even managed to visit an abandoned bunker, or perhaps a bomb shelter, left over from the Soviet era. Seeing the remnants of a tiled mosaic celebrating “friendship of peoples” and huge pipes in the flashlight beam was priceless.

Even in daylight, you can discover fascinating spots – a whole abandoned neighbourhood has been turned into a filming location. Into this post-apocalyptic landscape, they’ve added car skeletons, metal props, graffiti, and signs. Rumour has it, a post-apocalyptic film in the style of Mad Max was shot there – let me know if you find it!

Today, it makes a great attraction for tourists, photo shoots, and film sets.

How to Get to Enilchek

You can reach Enilchek from Bishkek (as we did), but the closest hub is the town of Karakol – so you can easily combine the trip with skiing there. Keep in mind that the settlement is right on the border with China, which means you’ll need a border permit. Since we travelled with a tour, our permits were arranged a few days before the trip. If you’re travelling independently, you can get the permit yourself at a Public Service Centre (TsON).

What to Know Before You Go

There’s no asphalt road from Karakol to Enilchek – you’ll spend about five hours driving on dirt roads. Since we joined a tour, transfers Bishkek–Enilchek–Bishkek were included, and it took us around 13 hours one way. There was no hotel available when we arrived, but kind locals let us stay with them – which gave us a glimpse of real village life.

Our goal was the hot spring, so we went in February, while the river hadn’t yet washed it out. Surprisingly, winter isn’t the worst time to visit Enilchek: at other times of the year, avalanches can occur or roads may be flooded. Still, even in winter, the journey isn’t always safe, so you should check the weather conditions in advance – or better yet, go with a tour company that has contacts in Enilchek to make sure the route is secure.

Conclusion

Although the road to Enilchek is long and difficult, both the route and the settlement itself are colourful and unusual places. If you’re tired of mountains and yurts and crave a real adventure – this is the spot for you!

You can also check out a video of the bunker and the post-apocalyptic “Madway” town on my TikTok.