So, you’ve decided to head out to Lake Kel-Suu. Good choice! But let me tell you- this trip calls for some solid preparation, whether you’re going on your own or joining a tour. Hopefully, the tips below will help, and your journey to the lake will leave you with nothing but great memories!

The Story of Kel-Suu

“Kel-Suu” translates from Kyrgyz as “coming water,” which is quite a telling name. The lake is only 45 (!) years old, having formed after a landslide in the 1980s. Its water comes from glaciers, so the lake works like this: glaciers melt – the lake fills up. As a result, in winter, the chances of finding it are pretty slim. In fact, in 2018, the lake didn’t appear at all, and everyone thought it had vanished for good. But the following year, it returned once again.

When to Visit Kel-Suu

As mentioned earlier, Kel-Suu is an unpredictable lake – you need to check in advance whether it has filled up or not. The best time to visit is July–August, when the lake is usually full. The weather, though still unpredictable, is at least less likely to leave you freezing. Keep in mind that the lake sits high in the mountains, where it’s much colder than in the Chuy Valley – even summer days can feel pretty chilly up there.

What to Know Before Your Trip to Kel-Suu

The lake is located just 20 km from China. True, the border runs along the mountains, which you can’t cross anyway, but you’ll still need a border permit. If you’re going with a tour company, all you have to do is send them a copy of your passport (at least a few days before your trip), and they’ll take care of the paperwork. If you’re travelling independently, you can get the permit yourself at a Public Service Centre (TsON).

Kel-Suu sits at an altitude of 3,000 metres above sea level, so the trip isn’t recommended for people with high blood pressure or other health issues.

First of all, the trip from Bishkek to the camp will take about 8–10 hours. The paved road ends around the fifth hour, and from then on it’s a bumpy ride. Second, once you reach the camp, you’ll still need to hike for about three hours to get to the lake (depending on your fitness level). Do not believe tour companies that say the hike is “easy”! Toward the end, you’ll face some steep climbs, and if you’re not an experienced hiker, trekking poles are an absolute must.

Remember that mountain weather changes in the blink of an eye – bring an extra pair of shoes and a change of clothes, just in case you get caught in rain or even snow (yes, snow in summer!). On our way back, we were hit by a downpour and barely made it back to camp.

What to Be Prepared For

If you’re going with a tour company (as we did), you’ll most likely leave Bishkek in the evening and arrive at the camp early the next morning. Don’t expect to move straight into a cosy yurt – our designated camp was full, so we had to look for another one. When we finally found one, nothing was ready for us, and we had to improvise: napping on bare mattresses, wrapped up in tushoks (Kyrgyz blanket-mattresses). In such tours, the hike to the lake usually starts at 11 a.m., which means you won’t get much rest beforehand!

While guest yurts usually provide breakfast and dinner, there’s no such thing at the lake itself. You’ll need to plan ahead for lunch – no one will cook it for you, so make sure to pack it in advance.

Also, don’t forget rain coats. They were a lifesaver for us on the way back.

People often say that the yurts at Kel-Suu are very warm, almost too hot, but that wasn’t our experience. Yes, there was running cold water and a basic toilet, but the dining area felt chilly in the evening, and so did the rooms. Thankfully, the super-warm blankets saved the night. Don’t hesitate to bring extra warm clothes -you’ll thank yourself later.

As for mobile service, it disappears somewhere after Naryn, so prepare for a proper digital detox! In some yurt camps you might be able to buy access to Starlink Wi-Fi, but there’s no guarantee that 1) you’ll end up in that exact camp or 2) the Wi-Fi will actually work.

At the Lake

Here’s some good news: you can rent a horse or a truck to get to the lake much faster – but it’s best to check in advance whether they’re available. Once at the lake, you can enjoy a picnic with a stunning view, or take a ride on a motorboat. There are plenty of boats along the shore, but be careful – they vary a lot in price and quality. You could pay around 3,000 soms per person for a brand-new boat and risk disappointment, or, like we did, go later in the day, pay about 1,000 soms, and have an amazing experience.

The lake stretches 9 kilometres long, but it’s not very deep, between 5 and 20 metres. You can ask a boatman to take you to a cave or an underwater grotto. We saw plenty of brave souls who wanted to swim in the lake, “just to tick it off,” so to speak. Let me save you some trouble – the water is so icy that even we, who’ve swum in Sary-Chelek, didn’t dare take a dip. And those brave souls didn’t either. I wouldn’t recommend it!

Conclusion

After reading all of this, you might think Kel-Suu isn’t worth it. On the contrary – it absolutely is! It’s a full three-day adventure with unreal views, almost as if you’ve stepped off planet Earth and into another world.