Ak-Tyuz: The Revival of a Picturesque Ghost Town

Ak-Tyuz: The Revival of a Picturesque Ghost Town

The most beautiful birch groves in autumn, mushroom picking in summer, ice sculptures in winter… plus abandoned mines, industrial ruins and a post-apocalyptic vibe. Welcome to Ak-Tyuz, a ghost town in Kyrgyzstan! This is probably one of the most unusual places in the country, and I recommend setting aside a full day to explore all its attractions.

Ak-Tyuz is another abandoned settlement in Kyrgyzstan that fell into decline after the collapse of the Soviet Union. Like Enilchek, it was once a restricted, hard-to-reach place during its heyday, only to end up in ruins – a remnant of the Soviet Union’s grand industrial projects. But unlike Enilchek, Ak-Tyuz is not a depressing historical monument. It is an “open-air museum” nestled in a picturesque valley, where traces of the industrial past contrast with forests, green mountain slopes and meadows. Ak-Tyuz is relatively close to Bishkek. You can get there by car or join an organised tour, and it can be visited year-round. I’ll explain the pros and cons of each season at the end.

History

Ak-Tyuz, meaning “White Valley”, was founded in the difficult year of 1938. The settlement was built for workers at a mining and processing plant. Lead, uranium and other rare metals were extracted there for the military-industrial complex. The settlement had special status, and you could only enter with a permit. So it is hardly surprising that after the collapse of the Soviet Union and the suspension of the plant’s operations, Ak-Tyuz fell into decline and disrepair.

One of the most serious issues surrounding its Soviet legacy is the environmental situation. Metal mining, particularly uranium extraction, left behind contaminated areas and tailings storage facilities that did not receive adequate attention at the time. Radiation levels are monitored there today, and a one-day visit should not pose a health risk. But don’t say I didn’t warn you!

What to See on the Way to Ak-Tyuz

You’ll come across several unusual art installations along the way. First, look out for a giant birdhouse with a sweet story behind it. Local school graduates installed it as a keepsake. Graduating classes that followed picked up the idea, and now there is an entire “tree” of birdhouses in all sorts of shapes and sizes.

You are also unlikely to miss the giant chair. This art installation looks completely surreal in the middle of a mountain landscape. I have no idea who created it, but the chair looks incredibly cool, even if climbing onto it feels a little scary. Make sure you take a photo with it — and climb right on top!

As you approach the groves, don’t miss Kichi-Kemin Lake. In winter, it is buried under snow and you can barely see anything, but during the other seasons it is incredibly beautiful and peaceful. You can have a picnic by the shore or save the stop for later, after visiting the birch groves.

The birch and spruce groves grow right on the hillsides and look particularly beautiful in autumn, when the trees turn golden. Take a walk or have a picnic (just please, for the love of gods, don’t light any fires) before heading to our final destination.

Ak-Tyuz Village

I dream of someone making a post-apocalyptic film here. Abandoned houses dating back to the 1940s, some of them still made of wood… birch trees growing right on the roofs of crumbling buildings… the remains of industrial architecture scattered among the mountains. It is an industrial tourist’s, urban explorer’s and photographer’s dream. This place impressed me every bit as much as the other locations on the trip. Just walking around the village, especially in autumn, is an adventure in itself.

However, things are not quite as bleak as they might seem. I first visited Ak-Tyuz about six years ago, and back then the settlement looked even more abandoned and deserted. Now you can see that more people have returned: they are renovating houses, installing new windows, getting pets and generally bringing the place back to life. And I am genuinely happy about that.

The Fountain

The most unexpected attraction in Ak-Tyuz is… a fountain. How did it come about? Simple: a water pipe burst. Unexpectedly, this jet of water shooting up into the air in the middle of the mountains started attracting tourists, so nobody bothered to repair the pipe. A rather questionable decision for a country with water shortages, if you ask me. Nevertheless, the fountain looks beautiful, especially in winter, when it turns into an unusual ice sculpture.

To give you an idea of just how popular this attraction is, they have even installed a toilet nearby. If you have travelled around Kyrgyzstan, you should understand the sheer significance of that.

The Quarry Lake

This is another relic of industrial activity with otherworldly scenery, and you really should not miss it (although in winter, you absolutely can). From the village, you’ll have to walk for about 40 minutes uphill. The slope does not look particularly steep, but it just keeps going. I comforted myself with thoughts of how easy and pleasant the walk back down would be. And it was!

As you might have guessed, the lake formed in an abandoned quarry. The surrounding landscape looks like a multi-layered cake that someone has taken a knife to, but the lake itself is stunning up close.

The water is a deep blue, almost turquoise, and so transparent that we felt tempted to go for a swim. Obviously, you must not do that. Also, do not pick the berries growing along the road to the quarry.

The Abandoned Ak-Tyuz Processing Plant and Mines

On the way to the quarry lake, you’ll pass a multi-level mining and processing plant. Naturally, it is abandoned. I would even say it is falling apart. You can approach the upper level on your way back from the lake. The sight is pretty post-apocalyptic. The plant is partially ruined, and going inside is unsafe, but seeing it up close is impressive enough.

Above the plant, there is one of the mines. The entrance is open, and the place looks like a scene from Chernobyl, when the corridors of the nuclear power plant became flooded. The water is crystal clear and flows straight out of the mountain. A freezing draft blows out of the mine… Once again, can someone PLEASE come and shoot a horror film here?!

There are two more mines at the top of the mountain that tour companies will not tell you about, because they do not take tourists there. You can reach them on foot or by car. The arched entrances are beautiful inside. These mines are flooded too, but you can still walk through them. The feeling is as if you are paying Pennywise a little visit.

The mine extends for about a kilometre, with side chambers and blocked-off entrances along the way. I am not sure how safe it is or what all these corridors were originally used for. All I want is to watch a proper film shot in these locations!

When Is the Best Time to Visit?

You can visit Ak-Tyuz at any time of year, but each season comes with its own quirks. In my opinion, the most beautiful time to visit is mid-autumn, when the trees turn golden. The birch groves make Ak-Tyuz one of the most beautiful places in Kyrgyzstan – and that is no small achievement. The weather is still relatively warm, so you can explore all the locations and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of autumn.

Come in winter to see how the fountain freezes into bizarre shapes and what kind of natural sculpture it has turned into. I also saw that restoration work was starting at the ski resort. Who knows — perhaps you’ll soon be able to come here for a ski trip? However, Kichi-Kemin Lake will be frozen or buried under snow, so you can cross it off your list. The same goes for the quarry lake. We spent 40 minutes walking uphill in freezing weather. And what did we get for our efforts? A snowy field with a lake supposedly hidden underneath it. A complete waste of time and energy. Do not repeat my mistakes.

Visit in spring only once the grass and trees have turned green. Otherwise, you risk getting a serious dose of depressing vibes instead of enjoying the greenery (and mushrooms!).

Summer is also an option — unless you have somewhere more seasonal to visit, such as Kel-Suu or Altyn Arashan. People come to Ak-Tyuz in summer to pick mushrooms, reportedly by the bucketful, according to the mushroom hunters. I am not one of them, though. I suffer from mushroom blindness — I could walk right past a whole forest of mushrooms and never notice a single one. So, for me, autumn is the perfect time to visit Ak-Tyuz.

Half-Day Mountain Trips from Bishkek

We are lucky enough to have been born in a country where the mountains are so close that you can escape to them even for half a day. But, like many attractions in Kyrgyzstan, many tours are seasonal. So, in this article, I’ll share my reviews of half-day trips from Bishkek and what time of year you can visit each place.

Find Out