Forgive my ignorance, but it was only when I actually got to Goa that I learned not all of India was colonized by the British. Part of it was colonized by the Portuguese. That probably explains why Goa feels like the most fun and chilled-out state in India.

It also explains the many half-abandoned colonial villas you see everywhere. Strangely enough, no one has taken them over — apparently, property rights are taken seriously in India (or so we were told). After independence, the white colonizers left, and their descendants never came back for these houses. We kept thinking about this every time we passed abandoned mansions and remnants of former luxury. Interestingly, many Goans (if that’s what you call them?) still have Portuguese surnames but Indian first names.

So, what can you do in Goa besides beaches, surfing, and getting food poisoning? Here are three ideas that can easily fill three full days of your trip. And first of all — visit the state capital if you want to briefly forget that you’re in India.

Panaji

Panaji (also known as Panjim) is the capital of Goa. The city is a mix of Portuguese colonial heritage and Indian flavor. You’ll find baroque-style buildings, narrow cobbled streets, and colorful villas (some of them half-ruined).

You can easily explore Panaji in one day. There are plenty of tours — food, history, general sightseeing — that you can join. Or you can do what we did and go on your own.

Panaji is relatively close to most beaches. To experience “real” Goa, we decided to take a regular local bus with a sign that said “Panjim.” Naturally, half the state was on that bus with us. An unforgettable experience.

Once you arrive at the bus station, you can walk to all the main sights, for example:

Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

I’m sorry, but who in their right mind names a church after the fact that poor Mary never had sex and still got pregnant? The Portuguese…

This bright white (almost said immaculately white) 17th-century church is located right on the central square.

Address

Fontainhas (Latin Quarter)

A historic neighborhood filled with colorful Portuguese-style houses. In my opinion, this is the most beautiful part of the city. It gave me flashbacks to Brazil — I used to live in a similar town with very similar architecture.

The area is full of restaurants, cafés, boutiques, and bars. Try to find a small bar tucked away in a shady alley:

Address

Mandovi River Promenade

A popular spot for walks and river cruises, including evening ones with music and dancing. And floating casinos. Lots of them. I’m not kidding.

You’ll also see a yoga park and administrative buildings in beautiful Portuguese style.

Best advice: just get lost. You won’t end up in slums, but you’ll see the city as it really is.

Tour: Temple, Waterfall, Spice Plantation & Old Goa

One of the most popular tours in Goa — easy to find online. I’ll just tell you how it actually went.

Early in the morning, you head to a Buddhist temple. At sunrise, there was a light mist over the palm grove around it — very атмосферно. Beautiful. The guide explained Buddhism, gods, traditions, and rituals. You can also walk around the grounds and explore on your own.

Next stop: Dudhsagar Waterfall.

Part of the journey is by jeep through mangrove jungle. On the way to the waterfall (not a difficult walk, but don’t wear slippery shoes), you’ll meet cheeky monkeys you can feed.

The reason this waterfall is so popular is… very Indian. A train runs along the mountain above it, and apparently a famous Bollywood movie was filmed there. You can actually see the train passing above the waterfall — it looks impressive. At the bottom, there’s a natural pool where you can swim. Just a warning: the water is freezing. Like Sary-Chelek in August. I got in and immediately got out. Well… almost immediately. The rocks make a quick escape slightly complicated.

After that, you’re taken to a spice plantation. An Indian woman (in Russian, with jokes!) shows you how spices like pepper, cardamom, vanilla, cinnamon, and cloves are grown. It was actually really interesting. Of course, at the end there’s a shop where they try to sell you all of it — spices, oils, Ayurvedic everything.

You’ll also get lunch there, plus some local homemade alcohol. Surprisingly delicious and not spicy — rare for India.

The final stop is Old Goa and its cathedral. We didn’t see the outside because it was covered with a huge tent — apparently there had been some big Christian gathering the day before. But we liked the inside.

And then, of course, they take you to a souvenir shop and don’t let you leave for about 40 minutes. Inevitable.

So yes — a very full day. Culture and nature in one package.

South Goa Beaches & Cabo de Rama Fort

If you’re staying in North Goa but keep hearing that South Goa is “greener” and “better,” this tour is for you.

You’ll be picked up and driven south. Quick tip: don’t sit in the back seat — the road is very winding. You will regret it. First stop: Palolem Beach (I talked about it here). You’ll have about three hours to walk around, swim, and admire the colorful beach huts. This is the most beautiful and peaceful beach in Goa.

Then comes a “river cruise.” The river itself wasn’t that impressive, but the guide fed eagles, pointed out wildlife, and… sang Russian songs. Yes. That happened.

Next stop: Agonda Beach — less impressive, but just as calm. You’ll spend a couple of hours there.

Final stop: Cabo de Rama Fort. “Fort” is a generous word — there’s basically nothing left except ruins and bits of walls. But the view?

Worth it.

Overall, this tour is less about culture and more about relaxing and taking it slow. If you don’t have a bike to explore these places on your own — take the tour. And thankfully, no souvenir shops are forced on you here. Praise Buddha.

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